Riccardo Tisci's debut collection for Burberry, unveiled during the Spring/Summer 2019 season, marked a significant turning point for the iconic British brand. Departing from the established aesthetic, Tisci injected a powerful dose of his signature gothic romanticism, reimagining the Burberry codes for a new generation while retaining a respectful nod to the house's heritage. This collection wasn't simply a presentation of clothes; it was a statement, a bold declaration of a new era for Burberry. The runway show, captured beautifully by Yannis Vlamos for Indigital.tv, served as a visual manifesto, showcasing a complex interplay of contrasting elements that defined the collection's unique identity.
A Reimagining of Heritage: Blending the Old and the New
The Spring/Summer 2019 collection wasn't a complete rejection of Burberry's past. Instead, Tisci masterfully blended familiar elements with his own distinct vocabulary. The iconic Burberry check, a symbol of British heritage, remained present, but it was reinterpreted. It was deconstructed, fragmented, and reassembled in unexpected ways, appearing as oversized prints, subtle accents, and even integrated into the very fabric of the garments. This approach demonstrated a profound respect for the brand's history while simultaneously pushing its boundaries.
The classic trench coat, another cornerstone of the Burberry identity, also underwent a transformation. While retaining its essential silhouette, Tisci infused it with a contemporary edge. He experimented with different lengths, volumes, and fabrics, creating variations that ranged from sleek and minimalist to dramatically oversized and deconstructed. This showcased his ability to both honour the legacy of the trench coat and reinterpret it for a modern audience.
Gothic Romanticism Meets British Heritage: A Unique Aesthetic
Tisci’s signature gothic romanticism was a prominent feature of the collection. This aesthetic manifested itself in several ways, from the use of dark and dramatic colours to the incorporation of delicate lace and sheer fabrics. The collection featured a range of black garments, punctuated by pops of vibrant colour, creating a striking contrast that was both edgy and alluring. The interplay of light and shadow, a key element of gothic aesthetics, was evident in the layering of garments and the use of sheer fabrics, which hinted at the body beneath.
This gothic romanticism was interwoven with a distinctly British sensibility. The collection incorporated elements of traditional British tailoring, such as sharp lines and structured silhouettes, while simultaneously subverting them with unexpected details. This fusion of seemingly disparate elements created a unique and captivating aesthetic that was both instantly recognizable as Burberry and distinctly Tisci.
Burberry Ready-to-Wear: A Collection for the Modern Woman
The Spring/Summer 2019 collection showcased a wide range of ready-to-wear pieces designed for the modern woman. From tailored pantsuits and crisp shirts to flowing dresses and romantic blouses, the collection offered a diverse array of options that catered to various styles and occasions. The versatility of the collection was a testament to Tisci's ability to create pieces that were both stylish and practical.
The collection's emphasis on layering allowed for a high degree of personalization. A simple shirt could be worn on its own, layered under a blazer, or paired with a flowing skirt, demonstrating the adaptability of the garments. This flexibility was a key feature of the collection, allowing women to express their individuality through their clothing choices.
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